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Smoke detectors are one of those amazing inventions. You can get a smoke detector for for sensing or smoke detectors that have lights and voice messages. Smoke detectors and smoke alarms save thousands of lives each year. In fact, it is recommended that every home or business have one smoke detector per floor, more for larger floor areas found in a business invironments. All smoke detectors consist of two basic parts: a sensor to sense the smoke and a very loud electronic horn to wake people up. Smoke detectors can run off of a 9-volt battery or 120-volt house current. In this article, we will examine the two most common types of smoke detectors used today: photoelectric detectors and ionization detectors. And, we'll also take a look inside an ionization detector. Let's start with photoelectric detector Photoelectric Detectors Occasionally, you will walk into a store and a bell will go off as you cross the threshold. If you look, you will often notice that a photo beam detector is being used. Near the door on one side of the store is a light (either a white light and a lens or a low-power laser), and on the other side is a photodetector that can "see" the light. When you cross the beam of light, you block it. The photodetector senses the lack of light and triggers a bell. You can imagine how this same type of sensor could act as a smoke detector. If it ever got smoky enough in the store to block the light beam sufficiently, the bell would go off. But there are two problems here: It's a pretty big smoke detector. It is not very sensitive. There would have to be a LOT of smoke before the alarm would go off -- the smoke would have to be thick enough to completely block out the light. It takes quite a bit of smoke to do that. Photoelectric smoke detectors therefore use light in a different way. Inside the smoke detector there is a light and a sensor, but they are positioned at 90-degree angles to one another. In the normal case, the light from the light source on the left shoots straight across and misses the sensor. When smoke enters the chamber, however, the smoke particles scatter the light and some amount of light hits the sensor. Ionization Detectors: Ionizing Radiation Ionization smoke detectors use an ionization chamber and a source of ionizing radiation to detect smoke. This type of smoke detector is more common because it is inexpensive and better at detecting the smaller amounts of smoke produced by flaming fires. Inside an ionization detector is a small amount (perhaps 1/5000th of a gram) of americium-241. The radioactive element americium has a half-life of 432 years, and is a good source of alpha particles. Another way to talk about the amount of americium in the detector is to say that a typical detector contains 0.9 microcurie of americium-241. A curie is a unit of measure for nuclear material. If you are holding a curie of something in your hand, you are holding an amount of material that undergoes 37,000,000,000 nuclear transformations per second. Generally, that means that 37 billion atoms in the sample are decaying and emitting a particle of nuclear radiation (such as an alpha particle) per second. One gram of of the element radium generates approximately 1 curie of activity (Marie Curie, the woman after whom the curie is named, did much of her research using radium). A smoke detector or smoke alarm is a device that detects smoke and issues an alarm to alert nearby people that there is a potential fire. A household smoke detector will typically be mounted in a disk shaped plastic enclosure about 150mm in diameter and 25mm thick, but the shape can vary by manufacturer. Because smoke rises, most detectors are mounted on the ceiling or on a wall near the ceiling. To avoid the nuisance of false alarms, most smoke detectors are mounted away from kitchens. To increase the chances of waking sleeping occupants, most homes have at least one smoke detector near any bedrooms; ideally in a hallway as well as in the bedroom itself. Smoke detectors are usually powered by one or more batteries but some can be connected directly to household wiring. Often the smoke detectors that are directly connected to household wiring also have a battery as a power supply backup in case the household wiring goes out. It is usually necessary to replace the batteries once a year to ensure appropriate protection. Most smoke detectors work either by optical detection or by ionization, but some of them use both detection methods to increase sensitivity to smoke. Smoke detectors may operate alone, be interconnected to cause all detectors in an area to sound an alarm if one is triggered, or be integrated into a fire alarm or security system. Smoke detectors with flashing lights are available for the deaf or hearing impaired. A smoke detector cannot detect carbon monoxide to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning unless it has an integrated carbon monoxide detector. Batteries and Smoke Detectors Most residential smoke detectors run on 9 volt alkaline batteries. If these batteries run out, the smoke detector will become inactive. Most smoke detectors should signal a low battery condition, but it is common for houses to have smoke detectors with dead batteries. As a result, public information campaigns have been created to remind people to change their smoke detector batteries regularly. In regions using daylight saving time, these campaigns usually suggest that people change their batteries when they change their clocks. Another option is to change batteries on a birthday. Some detectors are also being sold with a lithium battery that can run for about 7 to 10 years, though this might actually make it less likely for people to change batteries since their replacement is needed so infrequently. By that time, the whole detector should be replaced. Though relatively expensive, user-replaceable 9 volt lithium batteries (in the same configuration as the common alkaline ones) are also available. They should only be used in a fairly new detector. Smoke detectors with missing batteries are also a concern. As a result, many detectors sold today are designed to provide a visual indication of a missing battery. One popular brand of smoke detector will not allow the user to close the battery door until a battery has been placed in the alarm; another contains a spring-loaded protrusion obstructing the attachment holes when the battery is missing, preventing reattachment to the wall or ceiling and making a missing battery situation immediately obvious. Some local governments do not permit the installation of smoke detectors with removable batteries. In new construction, most building codes today require smoke detectors that are wired to the main electricity flow of buildings. Many of these units also include a battery backup to ensure operation during a power outage. Rechargeable batteries should never be used in smoke detectors, since common NiMH and NiCd rechargeable batteries have a short life in between charges—in other words, they self-discharge relatively quickly. This is true even though they may provide much more power than alkaline batteries if used soon after charging (such as in a Walkman stereo). Also, a problem particularly prevalent in older technology rechargables is a rapid voltage drop at the end of their useful charge. This is concerning in devices like smoke detectors since the battery may transition from "charged" to "dead" so quickly that the low battery warning from the detector is either very brief, or may not occur at all. A quality alkaline battery should be installed and replaced every six months or so. The used battery will still probably have the majority of its charge, and can be reused in less critical applications such as a backup for a digital alarm clock. For those living in areas that observe daylight saving time, one handy way to remember this important maintenance event is to replace your smoke detector batteries the same day you adjust your clocks for the new season. The alarm may chirp at intervals if the battery is low, though if there is more than one unit within earshot, it can be hard to locate. Testing Smoke Alarms Virtually all modern smoke alarm units come equipped with a "test" button. Alternatively, artificial smoke can be purchased, which has the advantage of also testing the detection mechanism itself. Many people simply wave a lit match underneath the detector to test it, however this is dangerous as it can set the smoke alarm and the rest of the house on fire. A better way is to blow out a match or candle and wave the smoke under the detector. The National Fire Protection Association, through its fire protection program, urges homeowners to replace smoke detector batteries every six months when changing your clock for Daylight saving time, and to replace the entire smoke detector after ten years of use. Installation and placement Place smoke detectors where they will do the most good.In the United States, most state and local laws regarding the required number and placement of smoke detectors are based upon standards established in Article 72 of NFPA fire code . Laws governing the installation of smoke and Fire detectors vary depending on the locality. Homeowners with questions or concerns regarding smoke detector placement are encouraged to contact their local fire marshal or building inspector for assistance. However, there are some rules and guidelines that are relatively consistent throughout the country. In older existing homes, smoke detectors are generally required on every habitable level and within the vicinity of all bedrooms. Habitable levels include attics that are tall enough to allow access. In new construction, the minimum requirements are typically much greater. All smoke detectors must be hooked directly to the electrical wiring, be interconnected and have a battery backup. In addition, smoke detectors are required either inside or outside every bedroom, depending on local codes. Smoke detectors on the outside will detect fires more quickly, assuming the fire does not begin in the bedroom, but the sound of the alarm will be reduced and may not wake some people. Some areas also require smoke detectors in stairways, main hallways and garages. Detectors on the ceiling should be placed several inches away from any wall. If the ceiling is not flat, the detector should be placed at or near the highest point. If the highest point is a small recess, then the detector should be placed at the next highest level. Smoke and Fire Detectors placed on the wall should be several inches, but no more than a foot, from the top. Detectors should not be placed on a wall if the ceiling has a deep recess or if the ceiling slopes steeply or for a long distance. Detectors should be several horizontal feet away from a heating or cooling register, window, corner, the edge of a ceiling fan's sweep and doors to a kitchen or bathroom. They should be placed as far as possible away from combustion sources, like oil and gas-fired furnaces, space heaters, clothes dryers and water heaters, without compromising coverage or safety. Smoke detectors in a basement should be placed at the bottom of the stairs and an additional detector should be placed in or near sleeping areas in the basement. It is recommended, and sometimes required, that smoke detectors not be placed in kitchens because the small amounts of smoke and particulates generated while cooking can set them off. Detectors designed for use near a kitchen may have a silence button to cancel accidental triggering. Smoke detectors should not be placed in a bathroom or near a bathroom door because moisture may cause false alarms or damage the detector. False alarms reduce the effectiveness of smoke detectors in preventing harm and property damage because people soon begin to assume that the alarm is false. Heat detectors, which sound an alarm when the temperature reaches a certain point and/or when it climbs more rapidly than a certain rate, can be used in kitchens, garages and areas with combustion sources that would otherwise generate nuisance alarms. Carbon Monoxide Detectors Every home should have a carbon monoxide detector installed. They are easy to install and can save the lives of your family members. But, before you buy a carbon monoxide detector, there are a few things you should know. What is Carbon Monoxide? Carbon monoxide (CO) is a common by-product produced when fossil fuels are burned. Although most household equipment and appliances produce minimal carbon monoxide when they are installed and operate properly, they can be deadly when they are not. Something as simple as an opened door to the garage, a small hole in dryer ductwork, or a malfunctioning exhaust fan can cause carbon monoxide levels to quickly rise to dangerous levels. Why You Need A Carbon Monoxide Detector There are many ways in which carbon monoxide can be released into your home and cause respiratory damage to your lungs, or worse, death. The following is a list of items that may cause Carbon Monoxide to enter your home: Fireplaces Heaters Hot Water Heaters Gas Stoves / Ovens Automobiles (Attached garages) Grills; propane, gas or charcoal Kerosene Heaters Dryers with clogged ductwork Nearby vehicle traffic Types of Carbon Monoxide Detectors Metal Oxide Semi-Conductor (MOS) Carbon Monoxide Detectors use heated tin oxide. When Carbon Monoxide is present, the heated tin oxide reacts with it and an alarm will sound. Biomimetic Carbon Monoxide Detectors use a gel-coated disc. When Carbon Monoxide is present, the gel-coated disc darkens, causing an alarm to sound. Buying A Carbon Monoxide Detector Although all tested and approved carbon monoxide detectors are sufficient for detecting carbon monoxide, there are some key elements you should look for when buying one. Some carbon monoxide detectors are more sensitive to Carbon Monoxide than others, meaning they will detect lower levels of Carbon Monoxide than other, less sensitive carbon monoxide detectors. What to Look For When Buying A Carbon Monoxide Detector Choose a carbon monoxide detector that has been tested and approved. If you want a carbon monoxide detector that monitors low levels of Carbon Monoxide, look for one that has a memory. If you are not diligent about checking and replacing batteries, a battery operated carbon monoxide detector is not right for you. Although they allow for more flexible placement, a plug-in carbon monoxide detector may be best. After Buying A Carbon Monoxide Detector Never plug a Carbon Monoxide detector into an outlet that is controlled by a switch. Test your Carbon Monoxide detector once a week by pushing the device's button. Replace your Carbon Monoxide detector every 5 years, unless the manufacturer recommends sooner. If the alarm sounds, evacuate your home and call 911 for assistance. Leave it to the professionals to determine the source of the CO. Carbon Monoxide Kills You can't smell it, see it or taste it, but it could be there now" Because of this, most people do not understand the nature of the problem from Carbon Monoxide poisoning. We are all aware that people commit suicide in their cars but that is about the level of most people's understanding.Carbon Monoxide is the the most toxic substance you'll come into contact with in your daily life - in your home, at work, garage, car, RV and boat. What is carbon monoxide (CO) and how is it produced in the home? Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. It is produced by the incomplete burning of solid, liquid, and gaseous fuels. Appliances fueled with natural gas, liquified petroleum (LP gas), oil, kerosene, coal, or wood may produce CO. Burning charcoal produces CO. Running cars produce CO. How many people are unintentionally poisoned by CO? Every year, over 200 people in the United States die from CO produced by fuel-burning appliances (furnaces, ranges, water heaters, room heaters). Others die from CO produced while burning charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent. Still others die from CO produced by cars left running in attached garages. Several thousand people go to hospital emergency rooms for treatment for CO poisoning. What are the symptoms of CO poisoning? The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu (but without the fever). They include: Headache Fatigue Shortness of breath Nausea Dizziness Many people with CO poisoning mistake their symptoms for the flu or are misdiagnosed by physicians, which sometimes results in tragic deaths. What should you do to prevent CO poisoning? Make sure appliances are installed according to manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by professionals. Have the heating system (including chimneys and vents) inspected and serviced annually. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections. Install a Carbon Monoxide detector/alarm that meets the requirements of the current UL standard 2034 or the requirements of the IAS 6-96 standard. A carbon monoxide detector/alarm can provide added protection, but is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of appliances that can produce CO. Install a CO detector/alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home. Make sure the detector cannot be covered up by furniture or draperies. Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent. Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent. Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open. Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge, skills, and tools. Always refer to the owner's manual when performing minor adjustments or servicing fuel-burning appliances. Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers for heating your home. Never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any room with closed doors or windows or in any room where people are sleeping. Do not use gasoline-powered tools and engines indoors. What Carbon Monoxide level is dangerous to your health? The health effects of CO depend on the level of CO and length of exposure, as well as each individual's health condition. The concentration of CO is measured in parts per million (ppm). Health effects from exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm are uncertain, but most people will not experience any symptoms. Some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms may become more noticeable (headache, fatigue, nausea). As CO levels increase above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible. What should you do if you are experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning? If you think you are experiencing any of the symptoms of CO poisoning, get fresh air immediately. Open windows and doors for more ventilation, turn off any combustion appliances, and leave the house. Call your fire department and report your symptoms. You could lose consciousness and die if you do nothing. It is also important to contact a doctor immediately for a proper diagnosis. Tell your doctor that you suspect Carbon Monoxide poisoning is causing your problems. Prompt medical attention is important if you are experiencing any symptoms of CO poisoning when you are operating fuel-burning appliances. Before turning your fuel-burning appliances back on, make sure a qualified serviceperson checks them for malfunction. What has changed in CO detectors/alarms recently? CO detectors/alarms always have been and still are designed to alarm before potentially life-threatening levels of CO are reached. The UL standard 2034 (1998 revision) has stricter requirements that the detector/alarm must meet before it can sound. As a result, the possibility of nuisance alarms is decreased. How should I install a CO Alarm? Carbon Monoxide alarms should be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. CPSC recommends that one CO alarm be installed in the hallway outside the bedrooms in each separate sleeping area of the home. CO alarms may be installed into a plug-in receptacle or high on the wall because CO from any source will be well-mixed with the air in the house. Make sure furniture or draperies cannot cover up the alarm. What should you do when the Carbon Monoxide detector/alarm sounds? Never ignore an alarming CO detector/alarm. If the detector/alarm sounds: Operate the reset button. Call your emergency services (fire department or 911). Immediately move to fresh air -- outdoors or by an open door/window. How should a consumer test a CO detector/alarm to make sure it is working? Consumers should follow the manufacturer's instructions. Using a test button, some detectors/alarms test whether the circuitry as well as the sensor which senses CO is working, while the test button on other detectors only tests whether the circuitry is working. For those units which test the circuitry only, some manufacturers sell separate test kits to help the consumer test the CO sensor inside the alarm. What is the role of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) in preventing CO poisoning? CPSC worked closely with Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to help develop the safety standard (UL 2034) for CO detectors/alarms. CPSC helps promote carbon monoxide safety awareness to raise awareness of CO hazards and the need for regular maintenance of fuel-burning appliances. CPSC recommends that every home have a CO detector/alarm that meets the requirements of the most recent UL standard 2034 or the IAS 6-96 standard in the hallway near every separate sleeping area. CPSC also works with industry to develop voluntary and mandatory standards for fuel-burning appliances. Do some cities require that CO detectors/alarms be installed? On September 15, 1993, Chicago, Illinois became one of the first cities in the nation to adopt an ordinance requiring, effective October 1, 1994, the installation of CO detectors/alarms in all new single-family homes and in existing single-family residences that have new oil or gas furnaces. Several other cities also require CO detectors/alarms in apartment buildings and single-family dwellings. Should CO detectors/alarms be used in motor homes and other recreational vehicles? Carbon Monoxide detectors/alarms are available for boats and recreational vehicles and should be used. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association requires CO detectors/alarms in motor homes and in towable recreational vehicles that have a generator or are prepped for a generator. Keep your home and family safe. Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors and Alarms, including First Alert Smoke and Fire Alarms, First Alert Carbon Monoxide Detectors, Kidde Lifesaver Smoke Detectors and CO Alarms. A Carbon Monoxide Detector can help protect your family from the dangers of carbon monoxide. Carbon Monoxide is absorbed through the lungs into the bloodstream and can produce headaches, dizziness, fatigue and nausea. For the most protection possible, it's best to install both a smoke and a CO alarm. Early detection is crucial, since you may have little or no time to escape a fire. CO Alarms detect a threat your senses can't. If you have a furnace, a fireplace, a water heater or anything else that burns fossil fuels there is a good chance Carbon Monoxide is in your home. Preparedness.com carries Kidde, First alaert BRK Brand, Firex AC, direct wire and DC battery powered smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors and alarms. Battery Operated CO Detectors. When shopping at Safetycentral.com look for these type of home safety devices: AC Wire-In CO, Carbon Monoxide Detectors AC Plug In CO, Carbon Monoxide Detectors Kidde Battery Powered CO, Carbon Monoxide Detectors Kidde Battery Powered Smoke and Fire Alarms Kidde Lifesaver 1275 and 1275E Smoke Alarm BRK Battery Powered CO, Carbon Monoxide Detectors First Alert Battery Powered CO Detectors Battery Operated Smoke and Fire Detectors AC Wire In Smoke Detectors Combination CO/Smoke/Gas Detectors ONELINK Wireless Detectors Kidde Nighthawk Smoke alarm Kidde Hard Wired Smoke and Heat Sensor Kidde Fyrnectics Smoke Alarms Kidde Ionization Sensor Kidde Photoelectric Sensor Smoke and Fire Alarms - Battery Powered Kidde battery powered smoke alarms offer an inexpensive and easy way to protect homes that aren’t pre-wired with an interconnected system. The battery power continues to work during a power outage if they have been replaced regularly. Battery powered alarms can be installed easily and all models include a test button, power indicator light, battery locking, and low battery warning indicator. Battery powered (operates by battery). Battery powered alarms are easy to install in most any room. These are ideal where you have no available electrical outlets. They are easy to install, and can be mounted out of reach of children and pets. Smoke and Fire Alarms - AC Wire-in Powered Kidde offers a full range of 120V AC wire-in life safety products with interconnect capability to provide the most immediate and complete system available. When any one interconnected alarm is triggered by smoke or heat, all interconnected alarms within the home sound an immediate warning. Wireless Smoke and Fire - Alarm System Kidde offers the first UL-Listed wireless smoke alarms. The Kidde Wireless System includes battery operated and AC powered alarms to fit almost any residential structure. The Kidde Wireless System is easy to install and only involves a few simple steps. The first step is to determine what type of smoke alarms are currently in your home: battery powered, hardwired, or interconnected. These offer the convenience of easy installation. They plug into any standard outlet, and some models feature digital displays which show you elevated levels of CO in the air. Combination 120V AC hardwired alarms with battery back up (wired into your homes current electrical system, with the added benefit of battery back-up). Alarm works during power outages. |  |
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